LiftMaster 3800 Residential Jackshaft Garage Door Opener
by Chamberlain
Our Price: $309.70
Availability: Usually ships in 1-2 business days
Buy Used: from $299.00 (click here)
Category: Tools
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Product Details
Manufacturer: ChamberlainModel: 3800
Product features:
- Specially designed for garages & applications that don't allow for a traditional garage door opener
- For sectional doors only, up to 14 ft. high or 180 sq. ft., 650 lbs
- Push button limit settings/automatic force sensing allows for faster setup
- Meets all UL325 requirements,Ultra-quiet 24V DC motor performance.
- IMPORTANT:Before purchasing, Contact Chamberlain(or website) to verify it will fit your application.
Description of LiftMaster 3800 Residential Jackshaft Garage Door Opener
Wall-mount installation - mounts on the left or right side of door. No rails to hang, it simply mounts on the wall and attaches to the garage door torsion bar. Unit requires an electrical outlet within 6 feet. Patented absolute positioning technology - the newest technology in garage door openers. Liftmaster patented design allows the electronic limits to be extremely accurate, even after a power failure. Optional accessories: 475LM Battery Backup, 377lm Keyless Entry Pad, 379lm Fingerprint Keyless Entry,975lm Garage Door Parking Assist, 370lm Mini Remote. IMPORTANT NOTE: BEFORE PURCHASING, PLEASE VERIFY THE 3800 WILL FIT YOUR APPLICATION BY CONTACTING CHAMBERLAIN. TO RECEIVE IT AND THEN SHIP 33LB PACKAGE BACK TO SELLER IS INCONVENIENT.Tools and Hardware Reviews of LiftMaster 3800 Residential Jackshaft Garage Door Opener
Customer Review: Works well and very quiet, but note my total costs.
Summary: 5 Stars
I have used it for a few weeks now and am very pleased with the product. I wish knew about it years ago. It is very quiet so I only hear the garage door rollers and track. I was a little surprised that I can't use the garage door more than 10 cycles per hour, but probably won't violate the restriction.
I would recommend adding the fingerprint keyless entry accessory to your cart - it works great.
I would have paid a little extra if the surge protection was integral to the opener assembly. The separate Chamberlain surge protector makes for a mess of wires around the outlet, making the outlet unusable for other things. I installed a dedicated electrical outlet near the motor.
Total "installation" took several hours, but it was a fun weekend project and I did it right. Removing the existing opener, surveying the wiring situation in the attic, and purchasing extra items, etc. accounted for much of the time.
OWNERS MANUAL
Google "Owner's Manual GARAGE DOOR OPENER Model 3800PLD" if you want to see what I saw.
The manual is better than most, but I still have some comments.
Page 3: Preparing your garage door. Along with proper balance make sure your garage door is maintained: door screws are tight; rollers are lubricated (silicone); bearing plates are good; cables aren't frayed; etc.
Page 4: It says "Drill" but you will likely need one with a ½" chuck to handle the 3/4" bit. My corded was too small and had to use my Dewalt cordless. Also, ¾" metal bits do not come in typical bit sets - see my purchases below.
Page 5: It says 30 insulated staples and I received about 10 - not enough.
Page 6 and on: Pictures of hardware (e.g., screws) say actual size. They are not, but you should be able to interpret what they are calling for.
Page 6: Assy step 1 says to position collar screws up, but the diagram shows them facing out. It is best to install them facing up. If you install per the diagram you may need to follow step 1.4 where it says, "To allow access to the set screws it may be necessary to raise the door slightly in order to rotate the torsion bar (i.e., collar screws)."
Page 7: Instl step 1.4 says to ensure the collar does not touch bearing plate. There is no diagram describing a "bearing plate." The "bearing plate" is actually part of your garage door assembly - bent piece of sheet metal holding bearing that the torsion bar slides through. Also, it doesn't say it but slide the torsion bar into the motor shaft several inches - not just the ¾" distance of the half collar.
Page 7: Consider getting a torque wrench if you want to be careful about the 12-14 ft/lbs of torque.
Page 9: Instl step 4. Make sure you install the tension monitor high enough that it clears the door. Otherwise you may be ordering a new monitor at the outset.
Page 9: Instl step 4. I installed my LiftMaster on the right-side (looking out) so I needed to remove/replace the snap ring from the tension monitor. I happen to have a snap ring tools so this was easy. Others can use needle nose pliers and "open" rather than pinch or you can use small standard screwdriver.
Page 22: Do not confuse the opener's Purple learn (forces) button with a remote learn. When I programmed my Honda's Universal HomeLink remote I used the wall mounted "Program" (learn remote) button per the manual's instructions.
MY REASONS FOR MAKING THE PURCHASE
It all started after one of my garage door torsion springs broke. The failure of the torsion spring resulted in the torqueing of my garage door screw drive, making it shudder and shake every time I used it. The repairman replaced the torsion springs and recommended I replace my Genie with a Chamberlain and said my garage would be a good candidate for a LiftMaster. I have an 11 ½ ft ceiling and an 8' x 16' wood door. I installed a basketball hoop in the garage for my son and I know he occasionally hits the garage door opener so the LiftMaster seemed ideal for getting that opener contraption out of the way. It would cost about $100 to replace the screw track on my 2 year old $177 Genie so I opted to go ahead and make the leap.
I chose to spring for the keyless entry pad because I have a teenage son and his friends were always looking over his shoulder when he used the keypad entry. My wife said my son was showing his friends how cool the new fingerprint entry was the other day and one of the boys played with it a few minutes trying to get his fingerprint to work. Makes me wish the little used "Enroll" button was a covered by the protective sliding plate to discourage such curious behavior.
I also sprang for the surge protector because our neighborhood has its share of surges and I want to protect the "investment."
The deadbolt security feature is nice and I don't have to worry about burglars opening the centerline opener with a wire clothes hanger (YouTube "garage door break in").
TOTAL COST ~$450
GARAGE DOOR OPENER & ACCESSORIES: $382.45
Purchased from "Sanford and Son? Overhead Doors"
LiftMaster 3800 Residential Jackshaft Garage Door Opener; $295.95 + $4.79 S&H
Liftmaster 379LM-10 315MHz Fingerprint Keyless Entry Pad; $63.97 + $2.98 S&H
Chamberlain Liftmaster 990LM Surge Protector; $14.76
ELECTRICAL BOX (some material was on hand): $33.07 + tax
Steel outlet box; $2.58
Steel cable clamp connectors; ~$2.45
Electrical outlet (Duplex Receptacle, 15A, 125V, Commercial Grade); $5.44
12 or 14 Gauge Wire (50ft, but may need less depending on distance from splice box); ~$20
Wire connectors (25 pack); $2.60
Note: Garage door spec. says 1.0 AMP (120 Vac- 60 Hz) so 15 AMP capability more than enough.
Caution: Strongly suggest getting an electrician for this installation. I'm an engineer (e.g., meticulous) was mentored on electrical installations and have been doing this for years).
MISCELLANEOUS: $28.40 + tax
Two 23 Watt (100 Watt effective) fluorescent bulbs; $2.97
10 count "television" wire splices (for splicing into existing wall controller wire); $3.97
3/4 bit with 1/2" shank; $19.97
Insulated Staples (~50 count); $1.49
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