Honeywell HE260A Higher Capacity Whole House Bypass Humidifier
by Honeywell
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Product Details
Manufacturer: HoneywellModel: HE260A
Color: light gray
Product features:
- Bypass flow-through humidifier
- Enhances comfort and properly humidifies homes up to 4,000 square feet
- Easy mounting on either warm-air supply or return air duct of any forced-air furnace
- Flow-through design helps keep unit clean and decreases the frequency of maintenance
- Installation kit required--sold separately
Description of Honeywell HE260A Higher Capacity Whole House Bypass Humidifier
This flow-through bypass whole-house humidification unit is low maintenance, cost effective, and is simple to operate. This unit requires good access to a return duct and drain. The humidifier mounts on supply plenum or return. The bypass carries air from the supply, through the humidifier, to the return. Standard control. No. HE220A1019: 12 gallon per day, uses Vista model No. 710 filter No. HE260A1010: 17 gallon per day, uses Vista model No. 714 filterTools and Hardware Reviews of Honeywell HE260A Higher Capacity Whole House Bypass Humidifier
Customer Review: WHOLE HOUSE HUMIDIFIER - WORKS GREAT
Summary: 5 Stars
I never had a whole house humidifier before but this one works great. I noticed that a few people have said that it doesn't work. But how could it not work? It forces hot air through a water soaked pad. The trick is to let it run a few hours the first time you use it.
My house humidity level was at 15%. This means that everything in the house was at 15%, not just the air. The carpet, walls, furniture, etc. are at 15% also. After I installed the humidifier, I let it run for 24 hours (set the furnace fan to run continuously). The humidity level went to 25% after 8 hours and then to 45% after 24 hours. I then put the fan back to "auto" and it only ran during the heating cycle (about 10 minutes per hour). The humidity level settled at about 40%. I also noticed that one night I turned the heat off and when I returned home about 12 hours later, my humidity level was at 19%. I turned on the heat (fan still on auto) and the humidity went back to 40% within the hour. Since the house was cold, the fan & humidifier ran about 25 minutes.
I did not use the install kit because I had most of the parts needed already. But I do have a few recommendations.
-drain hookup: Use a 3/4" clear hose and make a trap similar to the one under your kitchen sink. The trap prevents air from being sucked into the humidifier via the drain hose and the clear hose allows you to see the water going through the drain.
-water hook up: I did not use the enclosed piercing valve because I have seen them leak after a few years due to electrolysis (corrosion that takes place when water passes through two dissimilar metals). You also need a valve to limit the flow of water to the immersion pad. If you use the enclosed piercing valve, it will clog and/or won't shut off completely after years of use. I glued a CPVC tee into my main water line and installed a gate valve and a bushing down to 1/4". I then installed an in-line filter and ran 1/4" copper to the unit with a 1/4" compression "needle" valve before the solenoid valve (electric valve that is on the bottom of the humidifier that open & closes with current from the transformer). I opened the needle valve all the way until the pad was saturated and then closed it. I then opened it about 1/16 turn and watched the clear drain hose to assure that water was trickling through.
-electrical hook up: You can use either the 24v stat wire or the 120v "switched" fan wire off the furnace. I used the switched fan wire. My fan has 2 switched power lines (low & high). Some have 3. Put your meter on the blue (may be another color) wire after the contacts. Tap into the one that reads 120v when the fan is on and zero when the fan is off. I hooked this up to a receptacle with a switch and then plugged the transformer into it.
-duct work: I used a grinder with a 1/16th cutting wheel to cut the duct. BE VERY CAREFULL. This cuts the sheet metal very easily as well as 3/4" thick steel & just as easily through skin & bone. The instruction sheet is the template (says so on the bottom of the page). Make sure the square cut is level. Especially the bottom cut. Instead of a 6" round tap with a damper plate, I use a 4" x 10" square vent to 6" round. This allowed me to run the flex duct parallel to the main supply duct. I installed the damper plate within the 6" round side of the vent tap & bent a 3/4" flange on the 4 x 10 rectangle side.
-floor drain: I don't have a floor drain in my basement so I ran my 3/4" clear drain hose to the condensate pump. Make sure that the condensate pump's overflow wires are connected to the 24v red thermostat wire (may be another color). Cut the 24v wire and connect each side to the two wires on the overflow switch (it's a switch so the order doesn't matter). The overflow wires are hooked to a float inside the condensate pump and are usually a NC (normally closed) switch. Check this with your meter because the overflow switch on some condensate pumps can be either NC or NO. Also put a drain pan under the condensate pump because if it does stop working, the furnace will shut off but the pad is still saturated and it will continue to drain and some water may spill out of the condensate pump. Keep in mind that using the condensate pump with the humidifier will make it run a lot more than it usually runs with the air conditioner coil.
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