Wiremold C210 White Cordmate II Kit
by Wiremold
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Our Price: $17.25
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Product Details
Manufacturer: WiremoldModel: C210
Color: White
Product features:
- Space-saving concealer of your cords and wires
- Easily snaps open and shut
- Simple peel and stick self-adhesive backing
- Paint or stain to match your room's color
- Ideal storage solution for networking cables and audio/video wires
Description of Wiremold C210 White Cordmate II Kit
The Wiremold White Cordmate II kit contains everything you need to hold wires and cords within a space-saving cord channel that's flexible and hinged, and easily snaps opens and shut. The peel and stick self-adhesive backing is easily attached onto baseboards or walls, and the white PVC components can be painted or stained to match a room's color. This kit is ideal for holding networking cables and audio/video wiring. What's in the Box
l2 feet of cord channel (3 four-foot sections), two flat elbows, inside elbow, outside elbow, two couplings, and T-fitting.
Tools and Hardware Reviews of Wiremold C210 White Cordmate II Kit
Customer Review: BEWARE - dimentions are wrong on product, otherwise great!
Summary: 5 Stars
The amazon page says this is 1.2 inches in length, 2 inches in width, and 48 inches long. WRONG. The channel which will hold 3 cables of average size (e.g. rg-6 or rg-59 video cable, standard a/c power cord, etc) will hold 3 cables snugly across - it's about 1.2 inches wide outside, but inside is what matters if you have ALOT of cables. Unless you use some micro cables you won't get more than 3 standard size cables inside this track. The 2" dimention I argue with - there is nothing about the track that measures 2" wide. It's 1.2 wide, with under 1" of space inside, and about 3/8" off the wall (call it tall?) - yes the lengths are 48" long.
Wiremold has been used to hide ugly cables for a long time - this was perfect for my job - I just wall mounted a 23" HDTV in my dad's kitchen for him to catch the early morning news with coffee etc. (the set was an LG 23" with more inputs than you could imagine for computer use and a tv antenna / cable input as well - we are using it with a rooftop TV antenna on the house that grabs about 88 ATSC channels, of which we delete around 30 that are advertising or specialized language/childrens programming leaving a healthy 58 free tv channels on the tv set)
The cables were ugly though. RG-6 coax for the antenna feed, power and VGA to a small laptop that logs weather data from the usb port on the weather station I bought as a gift for my parents all had to go to the back of the set - it was a cable nightmare.
With the wiremold full, it drops straight down below the set with 3 cables inside (and they are snug) goes into an elbow to follow the baseboard, then goes through a T connector where the power cord comes out and into an outlet next to the T connector - the wiremold continues to the corner of the room where the RG-6 antenna cable enters the channel and from that point it has 10" left for the VGA cable.
NOTES for successful installation.
I made some mistakes so I'll share them with you for your install - best to learn from others mistakes!
The fittings (T, left elbow, right elbow, inside corner, outside corner) are very generous, but they do not adhere to the wiremold channel, they go OVER the channel. Because of this if you stick the channel to the wall directly touching the baseboard, you will not be able to put he fittings over the wiremold afterwards because it needs to go between the stick of wiremold and the baseboard - so the trick is lay a thin piece of plastic above the baseboard (1/16") then tack the channel down with the foam sticky back - that way you'll have room for the fittings to go over it (same rule goes for corners)
When cutting it, I used a hitachi power miter saw instead of a hacksaw Hitachi C10FCE2 10-Inch Compound Miter Saw - don't make real fast cuts even with the fast saw - let the blade come up to full speed then gradually slip it through the channel as if you were cutting a hardwood. If you make fast cuts, the blade teeth (and this goes for sawzalls too) can snag the non-opening edge of the channel and split the thin plastic - now you have a channel with an opening on two sides, one is a crack, the other a j hook mold. I put some clear shipping tape over the crack like amazon uses to ship boxes to you and held the crack together, then make slow milling type cuts with the saw which came out very clean with square edges on both the use piece and waste piece.
Always place the J hook side where you'll be able to open it later if you think you will add a cable at a later date, i.e. don't put the J clasp edge down towards the baseboard or you'll have a hard time getting it open later. Same goes for a corner of a wall going vertical.
When the project was finished it looked 200% better - no cable mess any more, no cables visable at all, and the adhesive is strong enough it will pull the paint off the wall before it comes off by itself, so make sure you have a level handy for vertical runs to give you an edge because once you stick it on the wall its not comming off. Consider it permanent after 5 seconds (I was able to carefully reposition a small 10 inch piece that had not fully adhered yet by slowly pealing it off the paint as soon as I realized I had a problem)
Make sure your cables do not have the RFI filters (those big blobs usually close to the end of the cable) because those won't go into the channel if they are far back from the connector (my monitor came with a cable like this and I had to buy a replacement VGA cable that has the RFI filters up close to the connector instead)
Final install tip, although it seems best to put the T connector for a power plug right under the outlet, I found it was better to
offset the T about 2-4 inches from the power outlet. This way the cable comes out and has room to lay over before going into the outlet and does not put stress on the t cover, which has no adhesive to hold it on. If it is right under the outlet it will tend to force the T joint off of the wiremold strip.
This kit gives you everything you need to go 12 feet, make an inside corner, and outside corner, go up or down the wall, join two pieces together and one T connector to let cables exit near an outlet. Don't expect to put more than 3 normal size (1/4") cables inside it and you won't be disappointed, but it is not 1.2 x 2.0 x 48" as the amazon specifications say. It's more like 1.2 x 3/8 in x 4 feet long strips x 3 + all the parts. Amazon needs to correct the measurements and make it clear what the raceway outside and inside dimentions are. If I expected 1.2x2.0 " as their page says, and could not fit 6 cables into it I would be upset, but my install worked out.
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